What is Rhone?

It is a name of a river that starts out as a trickle of water in the icy depths of Switzerland and enters France 44 miles west of Geneva. As it flows southwesterly through France it absorbs another river, the Saone near Lyons. The northern viticultural region of the Rhone begins just 20 miles south at Ampuis. It is here on the western bank that the wines of Cote Rotie are made. One hundred and twenty five miles later the northern Rhone region ends. In between are the other well known regions of Hermitage and Crozes Hermitage which sit on the eastern bank, the only ones to do so. The others – St. Joseph, Cornas, Condrieu, Chateau Grillet and St. Peray sit on the western bank along with Cote Rotie.

Interestingly, there are only 4 grape varieties permitted in the northern Rhone; one red (Syrah) and three white (Marsanne, Roussanne, Viognier).

Northern Rhone

 Reds    –  Syrah ; Cote Rotie, Hermitage, St. Joseph and Cornas

Whites – Viognier ; Condrieu, Chateau Grillet, Cote Rotie, Marsanne and Roussanne

                St. Joseph, Crozes Hermitage, Hermitage and St. Peray

The southern Rhone begins after the appellation St. Peray. The climate and topography differ dramatically from the north. It is much drier, hotter and breezier, less lush and the land reflects the windswept and sun-drenched climate. The aromas of Provencal herbs and garrique (an earthy herb scent peculiar to this area) are more than just imaginary as you drive through this area; these scents are virtually everywhere! These same aromas can easily be picked up in the wines and the cuisine.

 The bulk of the wines are made on the left bank of the Rhone River. This area is the most scenic and most traveled in France. This whole region is basically Provence. Vineyards lie on flat plains and gentle slopes which coexist with charming medieval hill towns filled with artists and artisans. The most well known areas are Chateauneuf du Pape and Gigondas where full bodied reds soar. In the eastern section the best Cotes du Rhone-Villages are found.

 One of the confusing things about understanding the wines of the southern Rhone are the number of grape varieties grown in the region. Here we go…

 As in the north, Syrah is here but far less important. Grenache is KING! It produces fleshy, ripe and very big wines when the vigor is NOT controlled. When severely pruned back and yield held down it can produce magnificent wines rivaling some of the greatest in the world. Very few are 100% Grenache, most are made of up to four varietals.

Southern Rhone

Reds – Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre and Cinsault

Also found but in a less important role – Muscardin, Terret, Counoise and Vaccarese.

Whites – Primarily Viognier, Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, Clairette and Bourboulenc.

Smaller roles belong to Picardin and Picpoul.

Grenache – The dominate grape of the south. A classic hot climate grape. At it’s best it offers kirsch, blackcurrants, raspberry or strawberry jam, pepper, licorice and roasted nuts.

Syrah – Whereas it is the only game in town in the north, it is relegated as an accessory here in the south. Some growers believe it ripens to fast in the hotter climate of the south. It is become an important element in blending however, especially in Chateauneuf du Pape. It offers berry fruit, coffee, smoky tar and hickory wood.

Mourvedre – As it is a late ripener and a very eccentric grape, few growers have taken a big stand with this varietal.  It flourishes in the Mediterranean appellation of Bandol, but only at Chateau Beaucastel and Chateau de la Nerthe in Chateauneuf du Pape have made it an important part of their blend. It adds color, complex aromas and structure to any wine. It’s telltale aromas are foresty undergrowth, leather, truffles and fresh mushrooms.

Counoise – Very sparingly used except at Chateau Beacastel in Chateauneuf du Pape where it has great finesse and provides deep richly fruity flavors with a complex perfume of smoked meat, nutmeg and flowers. Some believe it to have as much potential as Mourvedre.

Cinsault – All growers seem to use a small amount of Cinsault. It ripens early, gives good yields and produces wines that offer good fruit. Recently, it seems to have lost it’s appeal in favor of Syrah or Mourvedre.